Kimono Styles
Uchikake, or Japanese bridal kimono, are some of the most elaborate
garments in the realm of traditional Japanese ceremonial clothing.
They are heavy and thick with padding, and extend to the floor.
Until the Edo period, the Uchikake, a full length outer robe,
was worn by women of nobility for formal occasions, but is
now an essential component of any traditional Japanese bridal
costume. It is a robe worn atop the kakeshita kimono, and
is fastened with the kakeshita obi.
Shiromuku,
combines shiro, translated “white” and muku, translated
“pure” signifying the brides pure intention to
accept and conform to the customs and practices of the husband’s
family. The Shiromuku is a special type of kimono that is
worn only with a furisode uchikake which is a multi-colored
over-kimono. It has cotton filling in the hemline to weigh
it down and extend to the floor. The shiromuku is entirely
white except the red inner lining of the uchikake. The designs
are usually beautiful chrysanthemum or pine which symbolizes
good fortune.
Kuro tomesode, the most formal Japanese kimono for married women is
the five crested Kuro tomesode. Kuro means black, and tomesode
implies sleeves of short width. The shorter sleeves and smaller
sleeve opening are more appropriate for the married woman
unlike the longer wavy sleeve of the Furisode for the unmarried
woman. Kuro tomesode typically have five family crests, two
on the front and three on the back.
Iro
tomesode, is another formal Japanese kimono for married women which
ranks next to the kuro tomesode for formal kimono wear. It
too has five crests and sleeves of short width. The word iro
implies color, which differentiates this formal kimono from
the kuro tomesode. The lighter colors and designs of a married
woman's iro tomesode make this kimono more appropriate for
less formal events such as festive occasions, formal parties
and gatherings.
Furisode, is the most important Japanese kimono for a single woman.
The furisode kimono has long swinging sleeves, elaborate decorations
beautiful designs and colors made of very fine, brightly colored
silk. The furisode is a form of kimono commonly bought by
parents for their daughters when they turn 20, to celebrate
the Coming of Age Day. They are generally worn for major social
functions such as the tea ceremony, or wedding ceremonies
of relatives.
Houmongi,
is a modified version of the furisode or tomesode. Houmongi
are meant for formal visits. Homongi literally translates
as visit (homon) wear (gi) and can be worn by both unmarried
and married women. Unmarried women wear a simplified furisode
kimono with slightly longer sleeves and married women wear
an informal tomesode with slightly shorter sleeves. A homongi
is distinguished from other patterned kimono by an asymmetrical
pattern that continues unbroken across the side seams to the
back hem. Homongi kimono are made from bolts of silk that
were temporarily stitched to the finished length, hand painted,
and then taken apart to be dyed before being re-sewed. This
complex process makes these kimono highly desirable and valuable.
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